Bike was listed as “locked up”, but very low hr bike. Pretty much everything was original except FMF pipe and silencer and bike was stored inside.
The last time it was ridden it sucked in dirt. Crank was sent to Ken Oconner for rebuild.
In seizure cylinder wasn’t damaged but plating was flaking pretty bad. Cylinder with Pro X cast piston was sent to Powersealusa.
The chassis on the bike was clean and original. Just a good cleaning and regreasing. Shock bumper was missing, so it was dropped off for a rebuild.
Carb had 58 pilot and 178 main. Previous owner also had a reed spacer on the intake with an FMF gnarley pipe.
For Racetech fork springs owner had to make make a pvc spacer as the new springs are 40mm shorter than originals, stock springs had a lot of preload on them, owner went with a lot less at the RaceTech recommended 4mm preload.
The KLX may not be the biggest, baddest, best sumo out there, but its sure a hell of a lot of fun.
There is room for improvement in some things, which were addressed with rebuild. First and foremost is the suspension (front sprung for 155lb rider, rear sprung for 180lb rider, im 195 w/o gear). New suspension will be sent off and resprung and set up for my weight and motarding along with the shock refresh.
Also owner disliked the sluggish way the vacuum operated stock carb supplies power so it was changed out for a Mikuni 36MM pumper carb. the Carb also complimented the 351cc big bore kit from Bill Blue.
This 1992 Kawasaki KX 500 was long coming project, because owner were looking for right motorcycle over year till this gem poped up. The goal was to update the brakes, wheels, suspension, clutch and all around fit and finish. And end result speak for it self.
2011 Kawasaki triple trees got the stem pressed out and the KX500 stem pressed in
changed fork stops
the Brembo brakes and wheels are off a 2013 KTM
new impeller drive gear old on the end of the crank shaft was beat to death, mushroomed and had broken teeth
made bracket to utilize KX 450 sliders
custom made wheel spacers
rebuilt shock, race tech gold valve and bladder cap
cerakoted engine – tungsten color
ported cylinder and cleaned up power valves
new clutch basket
seat cover from MotoSeat
resotred PRO Circuit pipe
Simple way to upgrade the clutch pull arm for a little more leverage. Take a yamaha 450 pull arm shaft and this billet arm thats a tad longer, weld the splines to your 500 arm.
Looks like this bike was gently trail ridden for maybe 20 or 30 hours. The only wrench this bike ever saw was the rear axle nut to adjust the chain. It was pretty clear that the wheels had never been removed from the bike and the original “Claw” tires still had most of their tread left. The grips and levers looked almost the day they left the dealership.
Obvious that this bike not only had not been raced, but it doesn’t even look like the bike had ever been even in a small crash.
The paint on the fuel tank was unmarred and no sign of even the slightest knee scuff marks. The same goes for both unmarred engine covers. The seat still looked brand new, no cuts or scratches. Most bolts still looked quite new and the trans oils looked pretty good after sitting in a dry place for probably close to 40 years. There was a little bit of fading on the front fender, but other than that, the plastic all looked good.
There was no dry rot on any of the rubber parts either which were still supple like new. There were remnants of a mouse nest in the airbox, but this bike is pretty much a time capsule from the past. The few minor scratches on the swing arm and left side plate looked more from having things piled up against it in a garage than riding. This bike is 100% original.. no parts were broken or missing.
In the end the best match for the engine paint was the RAL 3020 Traffic Red form LVP.
For the slightly lighter colored frame, the Tahitian red from National Autobody & Paint Supply was a dead ringer except it only comes as a base coat which is a flat finish and needs a gloss clear coat.
rear motor mount bracket fabbed by Ray Carlstedt
replica HRC bolts,
upper motor mount bracket,
RC-replica swing-arm spindles,
stainless RC replica motor mount bolts,
CNC exhaust flange that will prevent spooge dribble typical of the stock bike,
vintage D&G front fork air caps,
RC replica white gas cap,
heavier .48kg springs from Race Tech 15 weight oil,
shock guard to protect the shafts on the Fox Air Shox
Dimensions – Overall length – 2183 mm / 85,9 in – Overall width – 825 mm / 32,5 in – Overall height – 1240 mm / 48,8 in – Seat height – 964 mm / 38,0 in – Wheelbase – 1489 mm / 58,6 in – Ground clearance – 343 mm / 13,5 in – Dry weight – 101 kg / 222,7 lbs
Frame – Type – Semi double-cradle (steel) – Front suspension, travel – Inverted telescopic fork (adjustable) , 310 mm / 12,2 in – Rear suspension, travel – Swingarm Pro-link with mono-shock (adjustable), 320 mm / 12,6 in – Front tire size – 80/100-21 51M – Rear tire size – 110/100-18 64M – Front brake – Single disc, 2-piston caliper – Rear brake – Single disc, 1-piston caliper – Fuel capacity – 9,0 l / 2,38 US gal – Trail – 119 mm / 4,7 in
Engine – Type – Water-cooled 2-stroke – Cylinder arrangement – Single cylinder – Bore & Stroke – 89,0 x 79,0 mm – Displacement – 491,4 cm³ (29,9 cu-in) – Compression ratio – 6.8:1 – Max. power – 64,6 hp (47,5 kW) / 6000 rpm – Max. torque – 72,2 Nm (7,3 kgm) / 6000 rpm – Carburetor – 1x 38 mm
Drive train – Clutch – Wet, multi-plate – Transmission – 5-speed constant mesh – Final drive – Chain – Primary reduction – 2.520 – Final reduction – 3.500 I – 1.750 II – 1.388 III – 1.150 IV – 1.000 V – 0.870
The wire harness were cleaned up and back in place and installed KTM pegs with minor fab work.
The radiators got some chemical cleaner which worked great at getting in the fins and small areas. Fins where straightened by two screw drivers. All the radiator hardware, clamps, hoses, etc… are in good shape except for the two hoses that attach to the cylinder head which were replaced.
gold excel wheels and dubya bulldog spokes and nipples ;
Tail pipe was tweaked to clear the air box and bladder on the shock. Also cut the stock front mount off the pipe and rewelded it to work with the ’95 frame
Fork modifications – pressed the ’05 stem out and pressed the ’95 stem into the ’05 clamps. New ’95 bearings and seals. Spanner nut from the ’95 but used the upper aluminum nut from the ’05. Measure your height of the stem in the ’95 before pressing it apart so you know you have the stem height correct.